Pondicherry - Chennai - Mamallapuram

Getting there - Friday was Republic Day in India, the day that British rule was relinquished to establish the republic of India, and Google had the day off. Following work on Thursday, Scott and I booked it to the airport for our first intra country flight. After arriving in Chennai, we hired a prepay car to take us about 150 km to Pondy. It was a memorable ride as we stopped at the equivalent of a trucker diner for a meal. We also had to confront the drivers, as they were trying to add on trumped up toll charges to our prepayed bill.

Pondicherry - Up early to catch the sunrise coming over the Bay of Bengal. For Republic Day, people were getting their floats in order for the parade. We meandered back through the French part of the city: the streets are tree-lined 'rues' and quite well laid out with some charming houses. Once you cross the canal, paltry in flow this time of year, you enter the Indian section of city, with the accustomed hustle and congestion.

Walking through the back streets, we stumbled upon a game of cricket of young-ins and were invited to play. We made friends with a group of guys, and they proceeded to tour the city with us. They first took us to a Hindu shrine, which are common in every city. We were barefoot, blessed, adorned with a bindi and string bracelet, presented with small flowers, and shown depictions of gods in our clockwise walk around the closet-sized shrine. Now fitting in, our entourage strolled through the well manicured botanical gardens. We then took out the boys for a meaningful lunch and wouldn't leave until one of the guys presented a flower to a lone female traveler. He was strutting the rest of the day.

After bidding fond farewells, we hopped a rickshaw Auroville Beach for some sunning. The town is a spiritual enclave with an interesting history, but we were there for the waves. We returned to Pondy and dropped by the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, founded by the same people as Auroville. The peaceful courtyard was laced with flowers and meditators circled a central shrine. Again, we walked clockwise around the shrine on our way out to dinner.

Chennai - Aside from our walk to the match through the city center, we did not see much of the city as our day's mission was to bring the Indian Cricket Team a win against the West Indies. In a 1 day match, which this was, the teams bat once and try to get as many runs as possible on 300 balls. In a 5 day test, the teams get an unlimited number of balls and bat twice.

Despite resting 2 of their best players for the upcoming World Cup, the Indians put up a respectable 268 before being eclipsed by the Windies' strong partnership of Samuels and the legendary Brian Lara. The cheap seats were continuously chanting, even over 7 hours into the match.

We met a Canadian expat living in Chennai who sat with us and then took us out for drinks in a wine bar (back room of a liquor store) and out for some street dinner. You can see the scene and the man working his magic here below. I love how he snatches the rice out of mid-air.



Mamallapuram - A beach town located between Chennai and Pondy. We had a relaxing day checking out well preserved shoreline temples, grubbing fresh seafood, hitting the beach, and messing around with some locals.

3 Weddings and no funerals

Our friend Shannon was in town attended her BF's cousin's wedding and graciously got some of her friends on the reception guest list, so that we may experience a traditional Indian wedding.

We arrived in style. The entrance felt like the Oscar's: red carpets, lots of steps, marching bands, and gyrating spot lights. We were greeted at the door with single roses, snacking nuts, and sweet Lassi drinks (like a yogurt smoothie). The reception area was an auditorium; the stage featured 2 thrown and an intricate house-like scene with another band playing on the side. We could not find Shannon and assumed that she was in the procession.

After over an hour of anticipation, the bride/groom came out and sat down and camera flashes popped: it looked like a modeling shoot. Our driver then came and found us. Wrong wedding! We left unnoticed.

We then arrived at our intended destination, in the same complex. Late. The procession was over and dinner was underway. Hungry and frustrated, we made a bee line to the buffet style serving area. We shoveled down a few plates and received a call from our driver. Wrong wedding... again! Twice!

After meandering the car down path in the same area, we walked in sheepishly and were immediately called out from the stage area, also adorned with the throwns and picture takers. We were greeted by the family and Shannon and thrust into wedding pics, drinks, and dancing. Like Goldilocks, this one was just right.

The (right) wedding party.

Hampi

Tremendous weekend!

Check out my online photo album at http://picasaweb.google.com/gregsmail

You can also link to Scott's album (hart5) from my page (as well as my other friends:)

Overnight train to Hospet - Not quite EuroRail, but it did the trick. We rode 2nd Sleeper class (with A/C, which proved unnecessary and chilly at night for this time of year). Attendant came by and took food orders for supper > poor Scott got a full cup of yogurt spilled on him and his stuff!

We arrived just after 5 AM, still pitch black. We hopped an auto-rickshaw about 10 km to Hampi. A surprising amount of people out and about. The oxen were on their way to work as well.

Hampi - Day One - Still night time, the town was difficult to navigate making it too early to search for accommodation, but it was just the right time to scamper up the boulders to catch the sunrise. The land revealed itself strewn with reddish boulders, making it look like Mars. There were temples built into the sides of hills at various heights.

We set our bags down and rented bicycles. We took a route that started on pavement; we quickly diverted to a dirt path with banana trees on either side. Along the way, we would stop at ruinous temples and dwellings and for an ascent to a hill top brokedown palace where we were able to see the entire land and plan our journey for the next day.

We made sunset at ruins laid upon a giant sheet rock.

Night life consisted of local musicians performing. Not quite the typical show, as a bull sneaked through the seams in the sheeted wall and started eating the banana leaves on the side on the stage. The organizer shoo-ed it away, but only after it ran across the stage.



Day Two - Up at sunrise to see the elephants bathing in the river, they must've had the day off, as every Hindu does on Sundays.

While the town was bathing, washing, and rejoicing in the river, we took a barge motorboat to cross and began our trek. 2 hours of over-landing grass, marsh, and boulders later, we appeared at the end of the rope. Luckily, a man in a large basket paddled over to the ford. Meandering back on foot to the village, we watched the sunset from the same spot.

We arrived early at the station as to not miss our train. It ended up being quite a scene, as it is most places that foreigners go. Curious and gregarious group, Indians are. I had out the iPod speakers and drew a crowd. After finding that my Hindustani selection was lacking and surfing some selections, we eventually settled on Prince.

Ian's Animal Corner - We saw dozens of monkeys, a cobra in a basket, water buffalo (as if they were cars), lizards, kingfisher birds, and a preying mantis!

For more information about animals, check out: http://ianwkaye.googlepages.com/



A monkey family runs by us during sunset. The Virupaksha Temple is in the background on the right.

Weekend in Hyderabad

Our first order of business on Saturday was to support the Google cricket team play their quarter final match against some other tech company. Us expats must've brought bad luck as we lost by 5 runs in a close match. Unfortunate and disappointing for the Team Google.

Charminar / Old City center - my first time out of the bubble of my corporate country club lifestyle of housekeepers, prepared foods, and drivers. Also, the first time in my life that I felt a degree of culture shock: bustling, crowded, needy, and slightly dirty were my initial perceptions. As I quickly became acclimated, I noticed the inter workings of any city center, only more lively.

The most unsuspecting aspect of the day was most people's fascination with foreigners: I posed for pictures and shook hands like I was a campaigning politician.

Charminar (meaning 4 minarets) is a historic mosque built in the 17th century. 10 rupees for Indians and 100 rupees for travelers to climb the narrow/steep staired hallways to the 2nd level where you have a great view. Afterwards, we crawled the streets for flavor with an entourage of children eager for small talk and/or a handout. Took a scenic drive home around the lake and passed a hospital and a court house that looked like rivaling Persian palaces.

Golconda Fort / tombs - highest point in the city - built in the 16th century and home to king. There is apparently a tunnel that travels from the top to Charminar (which you can see way off in the distance). An acoustical marvel where guards can notify each other several hundred feet away and up/down hill.

Shilparamam fair / market - you don't have to travel far to be acclimated to culture. Ritual dancing, foods, and stalls.

Sankranti (Pongal) - Sunday was also the first day of the Pongal festival. The Hindu harvest festival involves children flying kites made from cellophane and wire. Adults take it to the next level and host kite flying expositions and competitions. Families also make sweets and decorations and host people to admire and enjoy their handy work (and sometimes dress up their kids).

Arrived Safely!

Hey all! (first post:)

Singapore Air on the way over. Had to stop in Taipei due to bad weather to refuel - added a couple hours to the trip. Nothing to report besides lots of fog and rain.

Hong Kong - left the plane during layover, but ultimate departed on the same plane. the fly over the city was overwhelming - skyscrapers as far as the eye could see.

Singapore - 8 hour layover and got to venture out! Metro was very easy to use. City was clean, clean, clean, and (apparently) safe, with competitive conspicuous consumption (malls everywhere), perhaps at the expense of over all personality. It was weird how clean it was because there didn't seem to be trash cans anywhere.

Hyderabad - Guy with a sign that had the Google balls on it picked me up. People had fires lit on the side of the street on the way over to keep warm, though it was pretty balmy out, so maybe they were cooking.


on a river walk by the Singapore River